From: Newtopia (MicroSSG_at_Comcast.net)
Date: Fri Feb 20 2004 - 09:07:47 PST
Doug,
Thanks, in essence there aren't any hidden bombs to this approach, which was
what I was trying to find out - like wire routes, transistors/thermistors,
etc.
How did you apply the solvent, I was thinking a Q-tip? When lining up the
halves are there guides on the case edges or do you need to use a jig?
Regards,
Paul Curtis - USA/OR
MP 120 v2.0/130/2100
Michigan State Spartans - Go Green! Go White!
-----Original Message-----
From: newtontalk-bounce_at_newtontalk.net
[mailto:newtontalk-bounce_at_newtontalk.net] On Behalf Of Doug Parker
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 7:20 AM
To: newtontalk_at_newtontalk.net
Subject: Re: [NTLK] Re - Battery rebuilds
> I thought the exact same thing, and did end up simply
> cracking the seam...
>
> This worked OK, but it wasn't possible to get the
> battery back to it's original size... It ended up
> being a hair thicker.
>
> Kind if a pain. Plus it doesn't look so neat anyhow.
>
> I thinks franks idea is better, although I need another
> dead pack to try it....
I've repaired three 2x00 battery packs, which I opened by splitting them
down
their seams. (Replacement cells are 2000 mAh NiMH AA cells with tabs.) I
used
a straight edge razor blade as my implement of destruction. It took me about
5-10 minutes per pack to open each one. A plastic solvent purchased from my
local plastics distributor welds the seam when complete, and they look and
fit
as OEM.
After removing the original cells, take some extra time to remove the old,
dried adhesive on the inside of the cells.
Some replacement cells have a larger radius, due I think to their thicker
heat
shrink plastic covering. (The original heat shrink plastic used to wrap the
batteries was incredibly thin.)
Use calipers, measure before disassembly, and measure again after reassembly
but before gluing/welding the halves together, because as you noted there is
a
very tight tolerance for battery pack thickness. The old, dried adhesive
adds
some thickness that can put the width of the pack beyond spec.
I'd thought about removing the heat shrink on the replacement batteries, but
for security against leakage, it's probably better to leave it on the
batteries.
Can anyone confirm this about the heat shrink being a layer of security
against battery leakage? (NiMH cells) Maybe the outer plastic case is all
that's needed.
Incidentally, I found eMate batteries extremely easy to repair, too. Please
keep in mind, though, I'm a tinkerer just like Ed. ;-)
Doug Parker
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